Archive | January, 2012

Your Checklist For Supply Chain Management

Supply Chain Management Checklist

Understanding your Business- What are the most important factors for you supply chain strategy?

  • Price Point
  • Speed and Market- How Long
  • Location for Logistical or practical purposes
  • Extra values offered by the factor or company
  • Quality
  • Other Factors
    • Stability
    • Design
    • Technical Advisors

Make sure you are comparing apples to apples!

  • Same Fabric &Trims to your samples
  • SameTrim, constitution and sewing (Tech packs)
  • Same specs (Tech packs)
  • Same terms
  • Same social compliances
  • Samples or swatches
  • Tech pack
  • Standards – Sizing
  • PO Terms and Conditions

Tech pack- information needed for consistent pricing and delivery

  • Fabric weight, construction, and content
  • Trim detail with spec including buttons, zippers, embroidery stitches, labels, hang tags
  • Sewing Details
  • Packing Details
  • Size specs graded and size range defined
  • Chemicals applications and washes and finishes to apply including the standards

Company standards:

Some common standards that may differ for knits and woven will include you minimum ratings and test methods to use:

  • Shrinkage
  • Crocking- Wet and Dry
  • Colorfastness to laundering
  • Colorfastness to light
  • Torqueing
  • General Appearance test
  • Pilling
  • Seam strength

*The more requirements and tests needed, the higher the garment coat and coat to the buyer

Other Company Requirements That May Affect Price

  • Social Compliance Requirements
  • Terms
  • FOB Point- Factory, Freight  Forward or other
  • Document Filling Costs such as 10+2
  • Inspection requirements- Important timing
  • Payment Agreement for testing
  • Payment Agreement on samples
  • Payment Agreement on Sample Freight

General Overview: what to look for in a Factory

  • Social Certification of compliance
  • Factory overall capacity and available capacity for customers
  • Minimum orders by fabric, color, and style
  • Location- country and distance to port
  • How long has the company been in business?
  • Past and present customers with similar products
  • In house facilities and where is the outsourcing done
  • Average turn time for specific styles after all approvals
  • Inventory of their equipment and maintenance schedules
  • In house  auditors, auditing procedures and records of audits
  • Technical staff available for assistance

Communication

  • Do they write and speak English?
  • Response time?
  • Do they have a complete understanding of your questions and comments?
  • What W.I.P reports will the provide
  • Sample Quality- any issues due to poor communication skills 

Checklist For Exhibiting at a Tradeshow

Here are things you need to be prepared with for any tradeshow you might be exhibiting at.

Samples – Make sure to have merchandise all your samples as you would for a retail store display. Too many could crowd your space to few could give a too spare story of your company.

Booth   - Booth walls are often part of the show cost to you.

Racks or shelves to merchandise the line. These maybe included in booth cost.

Booth signs – Keep it clean and clear

Transportation – For set up for booth

Furniture – Bring your own because renting from the show unions are too expensive.

Light Music sources

Mirror – Good idea so Clients can see merchandise. Mirrors will also add depth to your space

Sales Order forms (Duplicate carbons)

Credit card machine -  (first check their credit and charge their card the day you ship.)

Line Sheets (style numbers, picture of products, delivery dates and
whole sale prices)

Business cards

Brochures or postcards

Accounting Profile (Business type, Market segment, target market,
retail Locations)

Credit Applications (Customers applying for credit)

Discount programs sheets (showing % of discount and new discounted price. Important to understand how much you can and cannot discount)

Sales Goal for Show (Internal)

Budget for show (Internal)

Market Kits for sales reps

Give away to make buyers remember your line.  REMEMBER YOU MUST BE SEEN AT LEAST 6 TIMES BEFORE YOUR LINE WILL BE REMEMBERED

Include:

Script – You have 3 seconds to engage WITH YOUR BUYER
Know your competitive advantages

Articles on company, celebrity or magazine editorials
FAQ’s (How to answer them)
Product Information – What type of fabric is used and how to care for it

Laptop

Container to hold and collect business cards – Important to follow up after the show

Pens and Pencils

Tape – Wide and narrow

Folders to file orders

Folders to give to customers with copy of their order forms

Bowl of Breathe Mints

Stapler

Paper Clips

Note pads

Models (To show product) They could be part of your sales team. Make sure they understand the script and your product.

Hotel

Transportation

Meal Reservations for Important customers

Project Runway to Nowhere – Reality Torture Show

Project Runway the show on Bravo as we know has become a very popular reality show. BUT, I just don’t get it!

On the whole it seems to me that reality shows, and Project Runway is a typical example are really shows that publicly demean, belittle, humiliating and generally are mean spirited that people love to watch! Why do people like to enjoy watching people get tortured? It is almost medieval mentality where people would gather in the village square to watch someone being flogged or branded or worse still to watch heads roll off the block!  Or the Gladiators wrestle lions in the coliseum!  Don’t we try and teach our children to be kind to one another?

But, I get off the real reason to my writing this blog. How many of the tortured designers that have been on the show are now famous and running a successful business of their own???? NOT ONE? So, why do they still line up and want to be part of these shows? I can only assume that they all hope they will be the ONE to make it! I actually have either had as a student while teaching at FIDM or Otis or met through my nonprofit Fashion Business Incorporated five contestants. One of which told me some details that back up my statement. Of course they are sworn to secrecy and could get sued if they were to tell the torture they were subjected to while being part of the show.

It seems obvious to me that the big missing part and the real reason they don’t make it in the REAL world is that none of them seem to really understand the business side of running a successful apparel business! Take a look at the many successful apparel companies who have been around for more than a few years and you will see that they are run by people who understand how to run a successful fashion business. You need to understand a cost sheet, and financial planning. Without knowing where the money is coming from you will lose your life saves very fast. The streets of most major fashion centers around the world are overflowing with “Wanabe” designers.  There are fashion courses taught at most colleges around the western world, but not enough jobs for them when they graduate. School loans to pay back and no way to pay them back.

We need to emphasis and teach more business skills. It amazes me how many creative designers I meet who have a great idea and a natural talent to design but JUST do not get the concept that without money it is near impossible to start an apparel business, let alone sustain it as it grows.  Where do the funds come from when there is more money going out to produce the good before you are paid for the goods sold? Then as you grow your company where will the funding come from for the healthy growth of that company?

As I continually talk about and which my books all explain you must have a business and a financial plan. Fully understand cost sheet, production costs, retail math and real overhead costs.  Maybe then you can apply for Project Runway! But I suspect by then you will not want to or need to!!

EDI (Electronic Data Interchange) and Large Retailers

A guest post by Jim Wiebe, an expert on technology and retail
What is EDI?  Why do large retailers have all these ‘compliance’ requirements? How is doing business with large retailers different than small stores and boutiques? Good questions.  Important too!  For answers, you need to understand how large retail operations work.
First of all, retailers have to make money.  To do that they focus on 3 things:  margin (higher the better), fast turnover (hot selling items), and above all, cost control.  The business problem large retailers face is that their costs are so high that on a good year they make 1 – 2% (which is really pretty astounding).  So they absolutely MUST reduce costs wherever possible.  When a retailer gets to the point where they have 10-15 store locations or more, they have to begin to automate to be come more efficient because doing things manually becomes more and more costly. That means computers and automatic systems and a carefully designed flow of documents and physical product into their stores.
EDI is simply described as the standard that retailers designed to send business documents electronically.  These are basically the same types of documents as in a paper system, POs, invoices, etc.  It is much cheaper and vastly more accurate to have computers talk to each other in a standardized way than keypunching by hand.
However, there is one document that is special to EDI which is the most important of all, and that is the Advanced Ship Notice or ASN. The ASN is a combination shipping document and box level packing list for each PO.  Why is this important?  Well, one of the largest areas of expense is in getting the goods from your (manufacturer) door to the store shelf, e.g. shipping, receiving warehouse/sorting, transportation to stores, etc. The ASN enables the warehouse/distribution process to be automated; without an ASN it all has to be manual.  Getting goods into the stores accurately, quickly and saving as much in freight and handling costs as possible is extremely critical.  So retailers who are just implementing the automated systems often say “Don’t worry about electronic POs and invoices just yet, but we MUST HAVE the ASN!”
So what it boils down to is that each retailer sets up automated computer systems and processes to handle 1) business paperwork and 2) incoming physical product.  In order for these processes to work smoothly, they require you as the supplier to fit into those processes as seamlessly and efficiently as though you were their wholly owned subsidiary. Retailers give you all the specifications in their documentation, and while there are a lot of similarities, all the details are specific to each retailer (and depend on how each has configured their own internal systems).  If you deviate from their requirements, they have to revert to handling your stuff as manual exceptions which is tremendously expensive for them. So they issue “expense offsets” aka chargebacks to recoup part of that cost.  In many cases these can be $250 to $500 PER VIOLATION and easily exceed the amount of your invoice (!).
That means that you have to plan how you are going to handle their compliance requirements, including EDI.  It means knowing what pieces you will need to outsource, how it will fit into your operation, and how to shop for vendors.  If you decided you needed a sewing contractor (or any other service) for your business, you would not blindly rush out and buy from the first one that came along.  Unfortunately, however, many manufacturers new to EDI are so intimidated by it that they desperately sign up with the first vendor that comes along just so they can get rid of the anxiety. Remember that EDI was invented a long time ago and was basically set up to be used by large businesses. Many of the services are still priced accordingly; not only are they over priced, but they lock you in to a multi year automatically renewing contract that is very difficult to get rid of.  Of course they are trying to keep you from discovering that there are better service providers out there at a fraction of the cost that do NOT require long term contracts.  Also, if you will be getting 2-4 EDI orders per month (or less) your needs are going to be vastly different from a company doing 50 orders per week.
So, is this EDI stuff difficult?  Not at all!  However, there are lots and lots and LOTS of details, and a whole other ‘lingo’ that you need to be familiar with before it all makes sense. My EDI BootCamp class gets you up to speed on all this stuff and then provides you with sample documents, examples of retailer specifications, implementation planning checklists, and even a free spreadsheet that you can use to track chargebacks (so they don’t fall through the cracks and you can fix them before they repeat over and over).  Note too that the retailers are vastly bigger than you are (and have a lot more lawyers). So we also talk about how to maintain a level playing field so they don’t take advantage of you.
Bottom line:  Is it possible for a very small company to successfully do business with large retailers?  ABSOLUTELY!  But you DO have to do your homework first; the retailers do not have time to bring you up to speed and learning-by-chargeback is too horrendously expensive.  So for less than the price of single typical chargeback, EDI BootCamp will get you up to speed so you can make plans to make the jump to the next level of learning and success.  Walmart, who is known as one of the most rigorous in terms of compliance, often tells their new vendors: “Sure we are demanding.  But if you achieve compliance with us, you can be confident that you have a world class system and are ready to do business with anyone.”  If you approach the process with that attitude, SO CAN YOU!
[ For more info, see www.EDIBootCamp.com or email edibootcamp@gmail.com. ]
Jim Wiebe has been working with computers and programming for more than 20 years.
Most recently he spend 10 years single handedly creating and maintaining the shipping department EDI activities for a large [15,000 packages per day] private label manufacturing firm doing business with JCPenney and Walmart.  Frustrated by the overly technical emphasis of currently available EDI course offerings, FBI asked Jim to create an EDI class specifically for managers and business owners who sell to retailers; the result is EDI BootCamp.  For more info, seewww.EDIBootCamp.com.

New California Laws Affecting Businesses

California New Business Laws – Overview from the Apparel News

For those of you with California based businesses it will be important for you to take note of the new California laws that will affect your business in 2012. Below is an overview taken from this week’s Apparel News of the new laws that you should be aware of. It will be important to follow up on any that will impact your own business. These new laws and regulations go into effect on Jan. 1.

In 2011, state legislators were extra busy, passing a slew of new rules that affect California employers. There’s everything from fines for misclassifying independent contractors to having to provide the same employee insurance benefits to same-sex couples if your company operates in a number of states.

A new law passed in 2010 under Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger’s watch makes it mandatory that California manufacturers and retailers let their customers know what they are doing about human trafficking. And San Francisco is making national headlines by having the highest minimum wage in the country. Here’s a summary of the state employment laws that will influence California’s apparel and textile industries in 2012.

Credit Checks

Assembly Bill 22 prohibits employers and prospective employers, not including certain financial institutions, from obtaining and using consumer credit reports (credit information) about applicants or employees.

Pregnancy Disability Leave

Senate Bill 299 requires all employers with five or more employees to continue to maintain and pay for health coverage under a group health plan for an eligible female employee who takes pregnancy disability leave (PDL) up to a maximum of four months in a 12-month period. The benefits are at the same level and under the same conditions as if the employee had continued working during the leave period.

Independent Contractors

Senate Bill 459 provides new penalties of between $5,000 to $25,000 for the willful misclassification of independent contractors, defined as avoiding employee status for an individual by voluntarily and knowingly misclassifying that individual as an independent contractor.

Written Commissions Agreement

Assembly Bill 1396 requires employers who have commission-pay arrangements to put those agreements into a signed written contract that sets forth the method by which the commissions will be computed and paid.

Notice of Pay Details

Assembly Bill 469 requires employers to provide nonexempt employees, at the time of hire, a new notice that specifies, among other things, specific information regarding payment of wages. This legislation also increases penalties for wage violations.

Genetic Information

Senate Bill 559 amends the Fair Employment and Housing Act (FEHA) to state that employers are prohibited from discriminating against employees on the basis of genetic information.

Gender Expression

Assembly Bill 887 amends the Fair Employment and Housing Act to further define, gender to include both gender identity and, gender expression, as defined by the new law, and to make clear that discrimination on either basis is prohibited.

E-Verify

Assembly Bill 1236 allows employers to continue to choose to use E-Verify but prohibits California state agencies and local governments from passing mandates that require employers to use E-Verify.

Leave Laws

Assembly Bill 592 adds language to the California Family Rights Act (CFRA) and the Pregnancy Disability Leave law (PDL) that makes it unlawful to interfere with or, in any way, restrain the exercise of rights under these laws.

Administrative Penalties

Assembly Bill 240 allows an employee that alleges a minimum-wage violation to recover liquidated damages pursuant to any complaint brought before the Division of Labor Standards Enforcement.

Wage Penalties

Assembly Bill 551 increases the maximum penalty from $50 to $200 per calendar day for each worker paid less than the determined prevailing wage and increases the minimum penalty from $10 to $40 per day for violations of prevailing wage obligations.

Non-Discrimination Insurance Act

Senate Bill 757 prevents employers that operate in multiple states from discriminating against same-sex couples by not providing the same insurance coverage for domestic partners as they do for spouses.

State Contracts

Senate Bill 117 outlaws the state of California from entering into contracts of more than $100,000 with companies that discriminate against employees on the basis of gender or sexual orientation with regard to benefits.

Workers’ Compensation

Assembly Bill 335 requires the workers’ compensation administrative director (AD) to work with the Commission on Health and Safety and Workers’ Compensation (CHSWC) to develop regulations regarding notices to injured workers; requires AD and CHSWC to develop and make accessible a booklet written in plain language about the workers’ comp claims process; and streamlines and simplifies other notices to employees. The new law also states that workers’ compensation notices posted by employers must now include the website address and contact information that employees may use to obtain further information about the workers’ compensation claims process and an injured employees rights and obligations, including the location and telephone number of the nearest information and assistance officer.

Human Trafficking

Under Schwarzenegger, Senate Bill 657 was passed, making it mandatory for California manufacturers and retailers to let their consumers and suppliers know what they are doing to fight human trafficking. Under the California Transparency in Supply Chain Act, retailers and manufacturers are required to post this information about their policies on their website’s home page starting Jan. 1.

Minimum Wage

The California minimum wage remains at $8 an hour, but San Francisco is boosting its minimum wage from $9.92 to $10.24 an hour. San Francisco’s minimum wage started going up after voters in 2003 approved an annual increase based on a formula tied to inflation.

San Francisco Based Companies

Beginning January 1, 2012, all employers must pay to each employee who performs work in San Francisco (including temporary and part-time employees) wages not less than $10.24 per hour.

The minimum wage requirement, set forth in the San Francisco Minimum Wage Ordinance, Chapter 12R of the San Francisco Administrative Code, applies to adult and minor employees who work two (2) or more hours per week. Each year, the City will adjust the amount of the minimum wage based on increases in regional consumer price index.

Under the Ordinance, employees who assert their rights to receive the City’s minimum wage are protected from retaliation. Employees may file a civil lawsuit against their employers for any violation of the Ordinance. The City can investigate possible violations, shall have access to payroll records, and can enforce the minimum wage requirements by ordering reinstatement of employees, payment of back wages unlawfully withheld, and penalties.

If you should have any questions or require additional information, please contact the Office of Labor Standards (OLSE) at (415) 554-6292 or Email MWO@sfgov.org