First Pattern & Sample
Once the sample yardage is acquired, the first pattern must be made. In
order to produce a good first pattern, the patternmaker must be able to
understand the design that is to be translated into a pattern, and then
into a first sample. A flat (technical drawing) of the garment is
sketched with finished dimensions and sewing details, topstitching,
zipper length, etc. If you are trained in draping, and are able to make
your own patterns, this will obviously save you a great deal of money.
You will then be more likely to achieve your vision of how you would
like your garments to look and be produced, without having the garment
remade a number of times before it is to your satisfaction. The next
step is to have the first sample sewn. The contractor that you plan to
use for your production, (not necessarily a sample maker) can often
make samples. This has the added advantage of the contractor being able
to cost the garment for production. Contractors like to sew the first
sample, as they hope that they will then be able to sew your production
orders. Using this method allows the contractors to become aware of any
problems involved with sewing a particular style, and enables them to
give a fair estimate of the costing. As a rule of thumb, sewing the
first sample is usually two to three times the price of sewing a
garment in production.
