Production of the Garment
Usually a contractor is responsible for taking the cut goods and sewing the garments for production. Larger companies may sometimes have their own in-house sewing operators, and still contract out some of their work. Some larger companies cut in the U.S. and then ship the cut garment to an off shore contractor to sew together. Or, they may have the total production produced abroad, which will enable the manufacturer to produce at a more competitive price point. There are pros and cons for producing offshore. Some manufacturers would rather pay more and have their garments produced domestically where they are able to keep better control over the quality of goods, have a faster turn around in production, and not have the customs and shipping costs to contend with.
Contractors generally work in piece goods, this means the garment is sewn piece by piece. For example: one operator is responsible for sewing a collar, another is responsible for setting the sleeves and another will complete the whole garment by sewing the finished pieces together. Each worker is paid depending on the number of pieces he or she has sewn.
Operators who show exceptional ability are frequently promoted to produce the first sample, (Sample hand), which is responsible for the prototype samples. This position requires a person that has a number of years experience and who can produce a good looking garment. They are generally assured steady employment at a regular weekly salary. A good sample maker is hard to find and well respected.
Betterwear companies have their garments sewn completely by one operator to assure a better quality garment; these operators are paid by the hour and not by each piece produced.
It is a common practice these days for a group of operators to be responsible for one garment, working as a team to sew the complete garment. This induces a sense of pride in the operators as their finished product is recognized as their own work. This is known as the modular method.
