Production Pattern, Marking, and Grading
Once the line is edited and the sales representative has the line, then the first pattern is made into a production pattern. The Production Pattern is a perfected first pattern. This means that the first pattern is corrected for fitting and sewing details and the lay of the fabric is tested for an economical marker. The production pattern is then given to the Grader and Marker Maker to be graded into sizes. These days the computer is mainly used to perform these two steps, although there are still hand graders and markers who do an excellent job.
Grading is taking the first production pattern, which is normally a middle size, like a size 8, and grading it up and down into other sizes. Grading is an important part of production, so the grader must be experienced. Production samples of the graded sizes are sometimes made to test the fit, and specifications are written for each garment and each size. This will ensure that in production the garments are sewn exactly as the approved production samples. Duplicate samples are usually made at this stage. Duplicates of the line are sent to the various sales representatives to show to buyers all over the country. (The larger the company, the more sales reps you have to represent you).
The grader usually makes the marker as part of the service. The marker is made for the complete pattern, using as little fabric as possible and interlocking the pattern pieces together to ensure there is no wasted fabric. It is printed out onto paper that is the same width as the fabric. The marker is made to be used by the cutter who will follow it while cutting out the pattern pieces. It is laid over layers of fabric that has been rolled out onto large cutting tables. The fabric is some times rolled out and layered to thirty layers of fabric or more.
